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A Garden of Fedoras

This year we are pleased to be participating in Crochetville's National Crochet Month Designer Blog Tour! All this month they have been highlighting various designers, so be sure to check in on their blog each day for the featured designer. But today is our day to shine.

Before I get to our featured pattern, I'd like to mention that the blog tour also has a pet charity project. Crochetville is a corporate sponsor of Halos of Hope, a 501(c)3 charity that provides handmade hats to cancer patients, so we are trying to see how many hats we can get them this month! If you would like to participate, hats may be sent to the following address:

Crochetville LLC
ATTN: Amy Shelton
103 Scarlet Oak Circle
Harvest, AL 35749

Now for the important question: What type of hat should you make? And that brings us to our featured pattern!

A Garden of Fedoras


When we asked if the hats should be traditional chemo caps or if they could be something fun like a fedora, we received this in answer: "Just because you've lost your hair, doesn't mean you've lost your sense of style."

We've been wanting to develop a fedora pattern for quite some time. The fedora is part of The Animator's trademark look for his retro gaming podcast, and we've been dying to create matching father-daughter fedoras for him and Little Lovely.

(Wait--is this a trilby or a fedora? While Americans tend to call this style of hat a trilby, the hat industry has no actual standards governing this sort of terminology. Opinions vary based on country and manufacturer. We choose to call this hat a fedora simply because it's the more recognizable word. See this post from our favorite hatter for more details.)

A Garden of Fedoras

What makes this pattern special? We wanted to make a fedora that didn't require any special shaping when the crocheting was done. No stiff wires or tricky blocking; when it's done, it's done. And we wanted to be sure to use one of Halos of Hope's recommended yarns. They emphasize that soft is key, so unfortunately craft store acrylic won't work for these hats. For this reason, we chose Cascade Cherub Aran for its washability and affordability.

Since the theme of the blog tour is "spring garden," we added an optional daffodil for a more feminine look. The daffodil has long been the official flower for the American Cancer Society, symbolizing strength and courage.

While our pattern is sized from Preemie all the way up to Adult Man, please note that Halos of Hope only accepts sizes 6 months and up. We just wanted to include the smaller sizes for our friends and family who also donate to NICUs.

Special thanks to fiddledragon for her assistance in the development of this pattern!

A Garden of Fedoras

Finished Size: Newborn (0-6m, 6-12m, Toddler, Child, Teen, Adult)

Skill Level: Intermediate

Materials:
Main Color (MC): Cascade Cherub Aran, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skeins
Size F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook
Stitch marker

Optional:
Flower (Yellow): Cascade Cherub Aran, less than one skein
Yarn needle

Gauge Square:
Ch 34. ROW 1. Sc in third ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across. (16 sc) ROWS 2-28. Ch 2; turn. Sc in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * across. (16 sc and 28 rows = 4 inches)


*Do not skip the gauge square on this project!*
In testing this pattern, we discovered that meeting the gauge is crucial to the success of this pattern. The gauge is very tight to help give the hat structure. Some testers reported having to go down to a steel hook in order to meet the gauge, and some testers reported not being able to meet the gauge at all. The gauge must be met in order for this pattern to turn out successfully, but once the gauge is met (if you can meet it), the rest of the pattern is smooth sailing.

Special Stitch: Picot
Ch 3, sl st in last st worked before ch 3.

Note:
Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses.  To avoid confusion, it may be helpful to circle the numbers corresponding to your size before beginning this project.  When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Crown Top

Worked in the round without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each rnd.

With MC, ch 5.

Rnd 1. Sc in second ch from hook and ea ch across, then rotate and work 1 sc in ea unused loop of the beg ch across the bottom. 8 sc

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 16 sc

Rnd 3. 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc. 24 sc

RND 4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice. (32 sc)

Rnd 5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice. 40 sc

Rnd 6. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice. 48 sc

Sizes 0-6m to Adult Only:

Rnd 7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice. 56 sc

Sizes Toddler to Adult Only:

Rnd 8. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. 64 sc

Sizes Teen to Adult Only:

Rnd 9. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) twice. 72 sc

All Sizes:

Rnds 6-7 (8-9, 8-10, 8-10, 9-12, 9-12, 10-13). Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 8 (10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 14). (Sc, ch 1) in ea sc around. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd.

The last rnds are worked by joining and turning between rnds.

Rnds 9-10 (11-12, 12-14, 12-14, 14-16, 14-16, 15-18). Ch 2; turn. Sc in first ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in current rnd.

Finish off. The join in the last rnd marks the center back. If the Crown Top is ruffly at this point, block it before continuing on to the Crown Body (see this post for tips on blocking).

Note: The diameter of the Crown Top is not the final diameter of the hat; the diameter will continue to increase with the Crown Body.

Crown Body

Worked in the round from the top down, joining between rounds and turning. The joins mark the center back.

With MC, ch 82 (98, 114, 114, 130, 130, 146).

Note: If you are in the habit of doing the beginning ch with a larger hook than the rest of the project, do not do so with the Crown Body or Brim. It may result in a ruffled edge, and in turn a sloppy finish to the hat.

Rnd 1. Sc in third ch from hook, (ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch) 8 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16) times, ch 1, skip next ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch) 9 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17) times, ch 1, skip next ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across. Join with sl st in beg ch. 44 (52, 60, 60, 68, 68, 76) sc

At this point, the Body is going to look much wider than the Top. Have faith: they will fit together! There is a concept in garment construction known as "easing," which is fitting a larger piece together with a smaller piece. You'll notice that the beginning chain of the Body has the same number of stitches as the last round of the Top. This is to aid you in neatly fitting the two pieces together, despite the discrepancy in size.

Rnds 2-5. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, *ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch sp; rep from * across, working the last sc in the t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd.

Rnd 6. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 9 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 48 (56, 64, 64, 72, 72, 80) sc

Rnds 7-10. Rep rnds 2-5.

Rnd 11. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 11 (13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 52 (60, 68, 68, 76, 76, 84) sc

Rnds 12-15. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off Newborn size.

Rnd 16. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (64, 72, 72, 80, 80, 88) sc

Rnds 17-20. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off 0-6m and 6-12m sizes.

Rnd 21. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, 16, 18, 18, 20) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, 17, 19, 19, 21) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, 76, 84, 84, 92) sc

Rnds 22-25. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off Toddler and Child sizes.

Rnd 26. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, -, -, 19, 21) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, -, -, 20, 22) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, -, -, 88, 96) sc

Rnds 27-30. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off.

Brim

Worked in the round from inner edge to outer edge, joining and turning between rounds. The joins mark the center back.

With MC, ch 106 (130, 146, 154, 170, 178, 194).

Rnd 1. Sc in third ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across. Join with sl st in beg ch. 52 (64, 72, 76, 84, 88, 96) sc

Rnd 2. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 13 (16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 54 (66, 74, 78, 86, 90, 98) sc

Rnd 3. Ch 2; turn. (Sc, ch 1) in ea ch sp around, sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd.

Rnd 4. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 15 (18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 56 (68, 76, 80, 88, 92, 100) sc

Rnd 5. Rep rnd 3.

Rnd 6. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 17 (20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 58 (70, 76, 80, 88, 92, 100) sc

Rnd 7. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off Newborn size.

Rnd 8. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 30) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (72, 78, 82, 90, 94, 102) sc

Rnd 9. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off 0-6m and 6-12 sizes.

Rnd 10. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, 27, 29, 30, 32) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, 84, 92, 96, 104) sc

Rnd 11. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off Toddler and Child sizes.

Rnd 12. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, -, -, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, -, -, 32, 34) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, -, -, 98, 106) sc

Rnd 13. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off.

Fedora Assembly

For best results, block all pieces before assembly.

Note: Although the assembly instructions refer to “Wrong Sides” and “Right Sides” of the fabric, whatever side is designated as the “Right Side” is up to you. Choose whichever side you think looks best. The distinction is only made to indicate which side of the hat the joining stitches should be made.

Line up the center back of the Crown Top with the back of the Crown Body. Pin into place.  With WRONG SIDES together, join yarn with slip stitch through both Crown Top and Crown Body. Working through both layers, ch 1, then (sc, ch 1) evenly around to join both pieces together.

Line up the center back of the Brim with the center back of the Crown Body. Pin into place.  With RIGHT SIDES together, join yarn with slip stitch through both Brim and Crown Body. Working through both layers, ch 1, then (sc, ch 1) evenly around to join both pieces together.

Weave in all ends. Fold brim up in the back and down in the front.

Optional: The following instructions are for the daffodil embellishment.

Daffodil Inner Petals

Worked in the round without joining or turning between rnds.

With Yellow, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc

Rnds 3 & 4. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 5. *Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from *around. 18 sc

Rnds 6 & 7. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 8. *Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc

Rnd 9. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 10. *Sc in next sc, ch 3; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd.

Finish off.

Daffodil Outer Petals

Worked in the round, joining, but not turning, between rnds.

With Yellow, ch 2.

Rnd 1. (Sc, ch 4) 6 times in second ch from hook. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd. 6 sc and 6 ch-4 sp

Rnd 2. Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, *(hdc, dc, 5 tr, dc, hdc) in next ch-4 sp; petal made. Sc in next sc; rep from * across, omitting sc from last rep. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd. 6 sc and 6 petals

Rnd 3. *Sc in next hdc, hdc in next dc, dc in next tr, tr in next 2 tr, picot, tr in next tr, dc in next tr, hdc in next dc, sc in next hdc, sl st in next sc; rep from * around, working last sl st in same sc as joining from previous rnd.

Finish off.

Daffodil Assembly

Sew Inner Petals to center of Outer Petals. Sew Daffodil to desired position on Fedora. Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations
beg beginning
ch chain
dc double crochet
ea each
hdc half-double crochet
m month
MC main color
mm millimeter
rep repeat
rnd round
rnds         rounds
sc single crochet
sl st     slip stitch
sp space
t-ch   turning chain
tr treble crochet

41 comments:

  1. What a cute pattern - thanks so much for sharing! :)

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  2. Such a wonderful and carefully designed hat pattern!

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  3. Great looking Fedora, thank you!

    elmey

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  4. It's a beautiful pattern, but ut it's not a Fedora, it's a Trilby!

    ReplyDelete
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    1. Tomato, to-mah-to. Trilbies are also known as "crumpled fedoras," and since "fedora" is the more recognizable vernacular, I stand by my naming convention. ;)

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  5. I so want to make this hat as I have a friend (36) who has just been diagnosed with metastasized colon cancer (lymph nodes, lungs, and skull/long bones) and I think making up a bunch for her and all her friends to wear would make for a great show of support.
    I even have, in stash, a whole lot of the dark (almost Dr Who Tardis) blue that happens to be the colon cancer ribbon colour.
    I'm having a heck of a time with the gauge, though ... just to make certain I understand correctly, the whole square of 16 stitches by 28 rows needs to measure 4 inches in length, width, both?
    I normally make amigurumi, blankets and the like .. this is my first attempt at something that actually needed a swatch done and I want to get it right.
    Thanks in advance for the assistance.

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    Replies
    1. Right--the whole gauge square when it's done should measure about 4 inches square. A quarter of an inch in either direction won't make much difference, but if you're off by more than half an inch, I'd try again with a different sized hook. :)

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  6. I'm sorry, but I'm having a lot of difficulty with this pattern. Cherub Aran is a 4 weight yarn, correct? I'm using a 4 weight, and upon getting to the body of the hat, I am having a really hard time seeing how this is going to fit my 6 month old's head. It seems too big and too big for the top that I have made. Please help? I don't even know where to begin diagnosing this. I'm a pretty seasoned crocheter, so I feel like I should be able to figure this out and that I'm going to feel dumb when I realize where I've gone wrong... lol

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, Cherub is 4 weight, but I would say it's on the lighter side of 4 (like how Red Heart Super Saver is heavier than Caron Simply Soft, despite both being worsted weight). I'm going to start by stating what I'm sure you already know, to make sure that your gauge swatch matches the gauge listed above.

      Assuming that it does, the hat is constructed so that the last round of the top has the same number of stitches as the beginning chain of the body. The body flares out from the top, so it will be wider than the top, but it will all "ease" together when you assemble it.

      Regarding the size, are you making 0-6m or 6-12m? The 6-12m is actually sized for 12m (or a 17-inch head), with the thought that a 6-month-old would eventually grow into it. But these are "standard" sizes, and we all know that kids don't always fit the mold. Our toddler has a larger-than-average head, so we actually made her hat in the Child Size. Similarly, her father has a smaller-than-average head, so we made his hat in the Adult Woman size.

      Additionally, the pattern was designed with positive ease in mind, meaning that the measurements of the hat are larger than the measurements of the head. This was done because the woven stitch pattern has virtually no elasticity, so it would not be able to stretch over the head like a typical crochet beanie would. We felt that making the hat slightly larger than the head measurement would give a more comfortable fit, and this is actually standard practice in non-crochet hat making.

      I hope all that helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions.

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  7. In row 6 of the crown body, the directions say (ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch). I can't make sense of it. Would you help me?

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    1. Hmm, that should say "skip next sc." Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I've corrected it above. :)

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  8. This doesn't really make sense... Are you supposed to do the crown body in a full round? Cause I have done this and it's a big donut that I can't make sense of... Pictures would help!

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    1. I'm sure you've already done this, but first I want to just make sure that you checked your gauge before you started. :) Too loose a tension would make it floppier than as pictured.

      Assuming your gauge is correct, I can now say that the body does sort of look like a donut before the hat is assembled; the crown, brim, and wearer's head help to give it it's final shape. This is by design, as the hat was designed for chemo patients; a stiff hat would be too harsh for their sensitive scalps.

      The body *is* worked in the round, but shouldn't be a completely flat donut, though. It should be at least somewhat conical, but not necessarily standing up on its own. If it's laying completely flat and you've been joining between rounds as directed, you may want to size down to a smaller hook.

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  9. I need help. First I love this pattern :) but I was wondering when assembling the crown top to the crown body, do we attach the smaller end of the body to the top or the bigger wider end of the body to the top? Any help would be really helpful. That k you!!

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    Replies
    1. Yes, the smaller end of the Body gets attached to the Crown. :)

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  10. Also, I have been trying to work on my gauge again because the first trial didn't go so well. I'm using Caron simply soft and I went down to a 1/2.75mm hook and the length is still 4.5" long. What am I doing wrong?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. How is the width with 2.75mm hook? If the width is correct and the length is too long, you may be drawing your loops too high when you yarn-over. Try to keep your loops as short as possible. I tend to be a tight crocheter, so I doubt you're doing anything *wrong* per se; we just crochet differently. :)

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    2. Sorry its taken me this long to reply, work has been super crazy these past few weeks. So I tried to crochet a little tighter with the 2.75 hook but my fingers got too sore and i kept fumbling with the yarn. So I switched to an E hook and am doing the childrens size. So far it's working perfectly so i'm thinking because of the way I crochet, this will work out. Thank you for your help!! and yes unfortunately i do draw my loops a little taller but didn't realize it till now :) thank you :) i'll let you know how it turns out :)

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  11. I'm making a toddler hat. The crown top is done. I have completed round 2 of the Crown Body. When I put the body up against the top there is 6 inches of "left over" (when I put the chains - 130 chains) around the perimeter of the Crown Top.
    The Crown top is 7.5 in diameter and 23 inches around.
    The Crown Body is 30 inches around.
    If I keep going won't I be left with 6 inches more than the needed when I go to assemble it?

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    Replies
    1. The Crown Body is designed to flare out from the Crown Top, so it *is* going to be bigger than the top. Just make sure you attach the smaller end of the Body to the Top when you go to assemble it. :)

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    2. Ugh....I just ripped out 2 rows of the body because I thought "no way are these going to fit together." The number of stitches matches up, but the top of the body part is still MUCH bigger around than the top.

      Delete
  12. I am trying to make your hat for my grandson yet to be born in a couple weeks.my daughter found the picture and asked me to make it for his newborn pictures. i am having trouble with the Crown Body. I can't get the first round I keep ending up with more the 60 stitches. I am making the 0-6 mo. size. I've re-checked the pattern and also did it on paper just to see if maybe I was crocheting wrong. Don't understand what I am doing wrong.

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    1. How many stitches are you getting? I just did it on paper myself, and I'm still ending up with 60. If I know how many stitches you're getting, that might give me a clue as to what the confusion may be. :)

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    2. It occurs to me that I should point out that the stitch count is just for the single crochets, not the chain stitches. You'll have more total stitches, but only 60 single crochets. Does that help?

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  13. I did try to make the hat by your pattern, but after the second lengthy frogging, went my own way! I am happy with my creation, but still would like to do your hat...I just can't grasp the directions....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh dear! If you like you can send me a detailed email of what happened, and I can see if I can help clarify things. You can use the contact form on this page: http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/p/about.html

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  14. I love this hat but, I don't know how you made it because I am going insane trying to do it! I have tried the body of the hat with an F hook, ch 146 then ch 130 .....waaaay to big. Then E hook ch 146, ch 130 and now ch 114 and it seems that even this may be big...I know these rnds are to be attached to the crown and with the increases forget about it! Lol I have no idea what I'm doing wrong especially because I'm a very tight crocheter. At any rate, if I continue with this size I'm afraid that the brim and crown top may be too small or look weird somehow. This is for my 21 year old daughter's Birthday...IF I can get it right. She has a 22 inch head and so do I so, when I see that the first rnds of the body are already a little big I wonder if I'll ever get it right. Is there a particular area of the head that the hat crown should cover or a number of inches it should be? For a 22 inch head I mean. Thanks so much! It really is a cool hat!

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    1. It looks like there are several questions here, so I'll see if I can answer in order. :)
      - The first row of the body of the hat is going to have more stitches than the last row of the crown. This is because the body of the hat expands out from the crown. The beginning chain of the body should be the same number of stitches as the last row of the crown though, which will come into play when you put those two pieces together.
      - The measurements of the finished hat for a given size are going to be bigger than the measurement of the head. This is because traditional fedoras are not skin tight, nor are they stretchy like regular crochet caps. For the ease on this hat, I used a multiplier of 1.1. So for the 22-inch head, for example, the last round of the body should measure 24.2 inches. The hat for the 21-inch heads measure 23.1 inches, the hat for the 20.5-inch head measures 22.55 inches, and so on. I hope this answers your questions. :)

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  15. Hi, thanks for answering. No, it really doesn't answer my questions! Lol! They're moot anyway. I am aware of the flaring of the hat and how it is assembled. I went down to a D hook and I believe, one of the child's sizes....the chain 114 for the body and size wise it's seems to be correct but, now I'm messing up constantly because with the black yarn and tiny hook I'm missing stitches on the rounds! I think the problem is the fact that I was using ( I gave up for now) red heart classic instead of the yarn you used. The red heart seems thin and stretchy. I'm going to try again with the proper yarn and see what happens. It's such a great hat! Thanks!

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    1. I gotcha. You've probably already done this, but I would definitely make sure to do the gauge square before starting again with the next yarn. It's much less frustrating to have to redo that to figure out which hook to use than to have to redo the whole hat. :)

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  16. having an awful time matching the gauge. I bought the yarn you used. Tried a B hook, getting 5.5 inches in length - that is after a few rows of the gauge block stitch.

    i don't know what else to try. any ideas?

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    1. I am a known "tight" crocheter, so the only thing I can think is that you must be a "loose" crocheter (at least in comparison to me). :) Since going down much further in hook size may be difficult with this weight of yarn, it may be easier for you to try a sport weight yarn instead.

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  17. Hi, I am confused, and I am asking for your help, please. I am making the 0-6 mos size, and have done rds 1-7 of the crown top. When I skip the larger sizes on the instructions & go down to all sizes, the instructions show another row 6 & 7 with different instructions. Which rows 6 & 7 do I crochet? Thank you so much!

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    1. Hi there! Thank you for pointing this out. I just corrected the row count. After you skip the larger instructions, you should be on rows 8 & 9.

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  18. Hi! I am making the crown body and am having difficulty. I chained 130 for a child. Round 1 put me at 140 SC instead of 68. For every skip ch, there is a ch1 to make up for the skip plus the SC, ch1, SC every 15 times. Where am I going wrong. Any help would be great!
    Thank you, Sherry

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    1. I think you may be doing the increase each time you skip a chain. Most of the crown body is ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch. There are only 4 times when you should be doing the ch 1, skip next ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; these are the increases.

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  19. Hi , first of all, I love your pattern! I have a question... I had go down to a 00 hook to get the gage size .I'm using the suggested yarn. Will the stitches being so small effect the sizing when it's finished? I'm on round 7 and the piece is only 2 inches across...help!! Thank you!

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    1. As long as your gauge square was the right size with that hook, you should be good to go. :)

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  20. I love the look of this hat and have completed the top (twice..... ). In struggling with the crown body on the first 'round'-it doesn't tell me to join after the initial chain row, so I crocheted along the chains. Should I join after the chains to make a loop?

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    1. Don't bother. I gave up. After 3 attempts, the hat was far too big every time. Yes, I did the gauge square.

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    2. At the very top of the Crown Body instructions it says, "Worked in the round from the top down, joining between rounds and turning. The joins mark the center back." So yes, you do want to join after each round.

      If you struggle with the size being too large like Kathleen did, I would recommend trying to make a smaller size. I made the Woman's size for my husband, as he has a small-ish head. To see the measurements I used to calculate this pattern, please see this post: http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2014/12/measurements-for-designers-hat-sizes.html

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